Basic Textile Terminology

Fiber-yarn-fabric

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Fiber is the basic fundamental unit from which a textile material is used and it is also known as the basic unit of a yarn which is characterized by flexibility, fineness, cohesiveness and a high ratio of length to thickness .There are two types of fibers staple and filament fibers. Some fibers are natural like cotton, silk and wool.

Yarns are made by twisting of fibers different types of yarns are made by twisting in different ways.

Staple fibers made staple yarns and filament fibers made filament yarns.

The process of making of staple yarns from staple fiber is first the cleaning of yarn is done and is straightened. Then the twisting of yarns is done which is called as mechanical spinning

The process of making of filament yarns from filament fibers. The process that is used for this is chemical process in which a spinning solution of raw material is made and the yarns are passed through the holes of a spinnerets .Then a solid thread like form is made which is called as filament yarns.

Now the yarns are made, then the process of making of fabric starts. There are many types of process that is used for making of fabric from yarn in which some are weaving and knitting 

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY

Fashion Photography is a most interesting field of fashion world. The excitement in this field is very much, the locations where they shoot is just fabulous and fascinating. We see a new type of world with the eyes of this photography’s.

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 Their job is to give meaning to the outfit and present in the most exquisite way. Fashion photography has developed its own aesthetic in which the clothes and fashions are enhanced by the presence of exotic locations or accessories. Fashion photographs are commissioned for a variety of publications, ranging from mail order catalogues to h high – fashioned magazines and Sunday supplements.

The job of fashion photographer is not only to photograph garments but also interpret the underlying ideas and associations suggested by the season, the range of clothes, the designer or the design brand.

Effects of colors

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Red

Red gives an image of confidence that commands attention. Red color is a symbol of life, passion, elation and energy. It evokes strong images. Being warmest of the color hues, it has an advancing effect, making it closer to the viewer than another color the same distance away. Red is also seductive color. In Chinese culture red (the symbol of active force) is paired with black (the symbol of passive force). In Indian mythology also red is the color of wedding, Indian brides wears red color on their wedding day as a symbol of prosperity and tradition. When worn alone red is hot, passionate and powerful.

Orange

Orange is a very powerful color. A secondary hue, created from red and yellow. Orange ranges from palest, which is flattering to the electric modern shade to subdued earth tones. Different shades of oranges project different images. Orange when used with brown and yellow or other shades of its hue gives a message of sophistication and reliability. When used with contrasting shades of green, it gives a young trendy and fresh look.

Yellow

Yellow is bold and electric and it stands out. Yellow is traditionally used on outer wears and raincoats for safety as its wavelength is more. Yellow is more feminine than pink, especially for Indian skin. It is also being used for religious purpose also. Yellow when worn with white or off-white glows and gives a look of eternal summer. Transparent fabric of yellow gives a modern bright look. A small amount of yellow gives zest to the entire color scheme of duller neutrals.

    

Effects of Colors

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The colors have a language of their own, different types of colors evoke specific emotional responses. It is important for a designer to understand the language of colors to help them in using appropriate colors to communicate their ideas well. Different type of colors conveys different type of messages like convey ideas, emotions, feelings, commands and many more things.

White

White is aristocratic and refined. White produces different effects when used with different colors .When it is used with pastels, it become soft and romantic. White transcends the fickleness of fashion with its elegance, purity and honesty. When combined with warm hues it suggests a sporty and casual look. When combined with neutrals, it maintains composure and elegance. When transcends all culture and season with timeless elegance

Woven and transparent fabrics add to the flexible attitude of white. White has its own palette. Wool, linen, lace, woven, all fabrics of white have their own colors, slightly different from each other.

Black

Black is known as the monarch of fashion world. From ancient times, black has been associated with mystery and corruption. Black creates a definite statement on the silhouette and the form of dress. Black has a power to absorb vivid colors.

After red black has always dominated the fashion world. Black color is become the first choice for women in garment as it give them a warm , cold , modern , dramatic or seduced image . Just as white suggests innocence, black evokes sophistication. Black color is mostly used for evening wear; you can use it in any form like lace, silk, chiffon, velvet and brocade. Black fabric can be embroidered, pleated, crinkled or embellished. Every season new colors are forecasted and introduced but, black continuous to be in the league.

Gray

Gray is dignified and confident. Gray evokes a sense of permanence providing foundation for our wardrobe. Gray color suggests confidence, permanence and sophistication. Gray has dignity and elegance. When used with red and magenta, gray gives a lively and refined combination. Gray color is associated with professional dress, implying seriousness and hard work.

Gray never has a decided effect. The message also changes with the use of the fabric and texture. To break melancholy of gray color we pair up it with bright colors .The color baseline for gray textiles is silver gray, brown gray, steel gray, dove gray. Gray is used in interesting patterns in knitwear, specially the classic tweeds.

Lines and Its Various Aspects

The line refers to the direction of visual interest in a garment created by the outline of the garment and the style lines, which divides the space in a garment. These lines, created by construction details, such as seams, tuck pleats, gathers and top stitching. These types of construction tend to divide space within a garment and create visual illusion by making the eye follow the line.

There are different types of lines which are straight, horizontal and vertical lines. Let’s discuss them in detail.

Vertical Lines

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Vertical lines stand for stability. The vertical line tends to move the eye in vertical direction. This feature adds apparent height and length to the body silhouette and makes it look narrower or thinner. A person wearing a garment with vertical lines in the form of stripes, plaids or vertical seams appear taller and more slender.

Straight lines in soft fabric tend to follow the curves of the body. It creates a rounded effect; whereas the straight look is maintained with a stiffer fabric .The same vertical lines, when placed spaced out, lead the eye in a horizontal movement; thereby, measuring the width of the fabric.

Horizontal Lines

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Horizontal lines lead the eye from one end to the other, adding apparent width and shortening the body silhouette. Horizontal stripes and borders , boat necks , off shoulders , yokes , wide collars , belts , large pockets , all move the eye across the garment , emphasizing its width at that position .

However , regularly placed thin horizontal lines with narrow spacing in between can have a lengthening illusion , as they lead the eye up and down . Irregularly spaced or thick horizontal lines tend to widen the area on which they are used as the eye moves across the area.

Color Types

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There are three types of color types which are warm colors, cool colors and neutrals. These different types of color type convey a special type of meaning and convey a different type of message about the personality of the person who is wearing the garment of that color.

 Let’s discuss each of this type in detail.

Warm Colors

The colors which are associated with the feeling of sun and fire are known as warm colors .The example of warm colors are red, orange and yellow. This color signifies aggressiveness and liveliness .Red is the color of love and romance and is also associated with danger. Yellow is the color of sunlight and signifies brightness, cheerfulness, happiness and optimism

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The warm hues are known as the advancing hues, as they create an illusion of forward movement and make the objects appear larger and closer than the other colors, therefore they emphasis the body shape of the wearer. It provides warmness to the viewer’s eyes.

Cool Colors

Colors of the sea and the sky are the cool colors. The Examples of warm colors are blue, green and purple. Since blue is a restful color and navy blue and navy blue has become classics in the wardrobe. Green is the color of nature and peace; it gives soothing effect to eyes and relaxation to mind and body.

The color associated with royalty is purple and therefore is associated with wealth and dignity .The cool hues have a receding effect that’s why it make the objects appear smaller and farther away as compared to the objects in warmer hues . Therefore they have a minimizing effect on body.

Neutrals

The neutrals are a part of every single fashion season. They complement other colors and are therefore always popular. Some examples of neutral colors are white, black, beige, tan, brown and gray.

Color Production

The understanding of the color production can be best understood with the help of color wheel. All the colors of spectrum show a close relationship with each other on the color wheel.

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Primary Colors

Red, blue and yellow are the three primary colors which are the most purist and brightest hues of the spectrum. All other colors are derived from these primary colors.

Secondary Colors

A secondary color is produced by mixing the two primary colors in equal proportion. A mixture of red and yellow makes orange, Blue and yellow makes green and red and blue makes violet.

Tertiary Colors

 A mixture of primary color with its neighboring secondary color makes a tertiary color .Such as yellow – green, blue- green, blue – violet, red – violet, red – orange and yellow – orange.

There are total three primaries, three secondary and six tertiary color in the color wheel .However many more colors can be made by adding black and white to any color to make the tints and shades of that color.

Color Schemes

Color schemes facilitate in assembling a set of colors that are synchronize or contrast well with each other. A color scheme looks good and also creates a feeling of wellbeing to the onlooker. There are different types of color schemes they are as follows –

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Monochromatic Color Scheme

The color scheme which uses single color is monochromatic color scheme. In this color scheme various darker shades, grayer tones and paler tints of a single hue may be included, such as pink red and maroon.

Analogous Color Scheme

The combination of colors next to each other on a color wheel makes an analogous color scheme, such as red – orange and orange, blue – green and blue, and blue violet and violet.

Complementary Color Scheme

The colors which are placed opposite to each other in a color wheel are known as complementary color scheme, such as red and green, blue and orange, yellow and orange and blue and violet.

Split Complementary Color Scheme

Colors that are opposite to each other on a color wheel are considered to be as complementary, and the color when used with the two colors on each side of the complementary color produce the spilt complementary. Examples are yellow with red – violet and blue violet or red with blue – green and yellow – green.

Triad Complementary Colors

Three colors placed equidistant on the color wheel are known as triad color scheme, such as yellow, red and blue and many more.

Colors

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Colors plays a very important part in our everyday life .Our world is full of colors and they make our lives more interesting and colorful. Color is the first element in a garment which seeks our first attention. It is the most little expensive factor that can be altered in the production of clothing. New colors are introduced during each season as they stimulate sales. 

The important thing while selecting the color for a garment we must consider the figure type, skin tone, and age and hair color of the wearer. The chosen color must be appropriate for the season and for the occasion for which it is being made and worn.

Color Dimensions

There are three different type of color dimension, which are hue, value and intensity.

Hue

Hue refers to the color visible to the eye when any surface is viewed under light. It is the main color. The color of the surface depends on the light waves which it reflects and absorbs. For example, the color red which absorbs all the colors of light except red, which it reflects. All the primary colors are hues.

Intensity

Intensity refers to the brightness or dullness of a color. Bright colors show higher intensity as compared to pale colors. The addition of gray, black and white to any color produces a color of lower intensity.

Value

Value indicates the degree of lightness and darkness of a color. A higher value is achieved by adding white, which are pure light and a lower value of intensity by adding black, as it relates to absence of light. The addition of white produces tints, which is lighter than the pure hue
. The addition of black produces a shade, which is darker than the pure hue. The addition of gray color produces tones. The value contrast is a part of each garment even if they are produced only for construction details. Strong value contrasts can achieve a dramatic effect.

Fabric patterns

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In order to make a fabric look beautiful and attractive, the motifs need to be incorporated in it as a harmonious combination of shapes and sizes. The different types of motifs can be combined while keeping the color palette in mind and using the predominant color in the background. Motifs can be emphasized by using contrasting colors, values and intensities.

The placement of the motifs is should be in the harmony with the background so that the motifs moves rhythmically from one to another, and is a balance remained between then motifs and the background.

Patterns on Body

A fabric design is made up of motifs. Motifs size, position and color are important in selecting the right fabric for the body type. These are some points which should be kept in mind while designing a garment which have motifs –

The size of the patterns on the fabric has to be in the harmony with body size or physique of the wearer. 

Despite the right choice of the color, the fabric with large pattern on it is not suitable for small framed women as it will overpower her looks and body and neither for large framed body as it will add girth to her already large frame.

Small or moderately sized patterns are good for small framed women, and when used in overall print or directional print it will make a large figure look appear slender.

Large and bold patterns are suitable only for tall and large figures.

The of pattern must complement the style of the garment.

Bold and intrinsic patterns should be used in simple styled garment.

If the highlight of the garment is it’s designing and styling, then the fabric must be selected to suit the style details.  

Textures and Its Usage in Clothing and Fashion Industry

The textures can be known as the sensuous element of a design and it adds interest of the surface of the fabric by its design and its construction. Texture s can be felt by different mediums like by the play of the light on the fabric, or can be felt by hands and can be heard by rustle of the fabric. Different combinations of textures create interest to a garment.

The prevalent style of a season determines the textures that will be in vogue, as they both need to be compatible with each other. The best fabric choice for tailored styles are crisp and firmly woven fabrics such as gabardine , twill , woolens , while soft fabrics like chiffon , silk , crepe are ideal for drapery purpose .

The designers use different garment construction techniques to manipulate fabric in the desirable way, such techniques are pleating, tucking, shirring and gathering. There are some classic fabrics; these fabrics are neither very soft nor very rough.

Some of the examples of classic fabrics are cotton and terry cot. Textures must be appropriate for the season and occasion. For example, heavy and warm fabrics for winters and cool light, thin and absorbent fabrics for summers.

Dull fabrics are suitable for casual styling and shiny fabrics are good choice for party wear. 

Usage in clothing

Textures can be used for making illusion, as fabric qualities, such as weight, light absorbent and reflection are dependent on fabric textures .

The texture of fabric should be in the harmony with the texture of skin and hair.

The shiny fabrics make the body appear larger as light is reflected from the fabric, especially in the case of fitted garment.

The usage of dull fabric is very suitable for all body types as they do not bring unintended attention to the body.

Soft fabrics tend to cling and therefore suitable for those who want to reveal their body figures.

Stiff fabrics stand away from the body and hide figure problems but very stiff fabrics add bulk and weight, making the body look very heavy.

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Textures

Texture is a term used to describe the surface appearance and feel of the fabric . The selection of a fabric that is done by basis of it’s the on going fashion trends , quality , performance , price and most importantly its suitability to the design . In designing a garment the most important thing is the selection of the fabric as different type of garment is made with different types of fabrics . 

The textures of fabrics are depend upon the following four factors –

• Fibers
• Yarns
• Fabric construction
• Finish

Fibers

Fibers are referred to the raw materials that are spun into yarn with the help of weaving and knit into cloth with the help of knitting . Fabric textures are the result of the inherent characteristics of the raw material . The best examples of this are the jute fibers which are harsh that’s why they are used for making sacks and the silk filaments are very smooth that’s why they are used for making soft silk fabric .

Yarns

Yarns are made by using different type of techniques from which different types of textures are emerged . Low twisted yarns gives a shiny texture as in the case of satin and high twisted leads to rough texture .

Fabric Construction

This refers to the techniques by which yarns are converted into fabrics the different  techniques that are used are weaving , knitting and felting of the yarn to make fabric . The texture of the fabric is varied as the result of the different construction techniques even with the use of similar yarns . These techniques vary the feel and look of the fabric .

Finish

Refers to the fabric finishes that vary the textures of the fabric by using different chemicals . Some finishes stiffens the fabric and others softens it .

Silhouette of a Garment

The silhouette is the outline of the garment .The most dramatic visual element of a garment is its silhouette . Silhouette forms the first impression of a garment to a person which may or may not be appealing to the eye .The direction of horizontal or vertical lines in a garment determines the silhouette of a garment .

 A silhouette should complement the body shape of the garment . Each silhouette has its highlighted features in terms of any specific part of the garment such as sleeves ,waistline and shoulders . Three basic silhouette has been prevalent in the soiecty are – straight or tubular , bell or bouffant and back fullness or bustle .

These silhouette has been popular during various times in the history of fashion . Some other types of garment silhouette are –

The Natural body Silhouette

This silhouette follows the curves  of the body in its natural way, which can be seen in the case of stretch body suits , swimsuits and leotards .

The Slim Line Silhouette

This type of silhouette fits close to the body , which is similar to the tailored silhouette of a business suit .

The Hourglass silhouette

This type of silhouette is similar to a perfect feminine silhouette as it has full bust , small waist and wide hips . The point which is most highlighted in this silhouette is the waist line area . Wedding gowns are the best example of this type of silhouette as it is fitted from the waist area .

The Moderate Silhouette

This type of silhouette is prepared with extra ease . The type of fabric by which this type garments are manufactured are soft and sheer fabrics which emphasis on soft details such as shirring , ruffeles and gathers . This type of silhouette is used in making of party wear dresses .

The Extreme Silhouette

This type of silhouette is used to widen or add volume to the particular area of the body , such as padding at the shoulders to increase shoulder width, thereby making the lower tors look narrower than the upper torso and making a person appear taller .the best example of this type of clothing are outerwear garments such as coats and capes .

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The Principles of Design

The principles of design are important in making harmony with the elements of design.The principle of design is a combining element in any garment.The main principle of design are as follows-

PROPORTION
BALANCE
RHYTHM
EMPHASIS
HARMONY

PROPORTION
Proportion can be defined as a pleasing relationship between the garment and its different parts. In garment its silhouette has to be in proportion with the different parts of the garment. The basic law or the golden law that is provided by the egyptians are 3:5:8 and 5:8:13. A proportionate garment design needs to be synchronised with the motifs, the placement of the motifs and the desirability of the garment to the wearer.The colours in a garment also provides proportion to the garment.The best example of this are Indian ladies suits which follows a inverted proportion system. Although mini skirts are designed in poor proportion as the shorter length of the garment proportionate the longer legs of the wearer.
Proportion And Body Shape
The body size can be divided into three categories which are as follows-
Small
Medium
Large
The person who is of small body size should not wear garments which have big patterns on it , excess of jewellery also do not look good on small statured people.

The person who is of medium body size can wear a wide variety of garments and different types of fabrics according to their body size.

The person who has large body size can wear garments which have small motifs on it which can accentuate the body shape of the person.

BALANCE
Balance is a state of equilibrium of the design parts. In a garment balance can be provided with different means. The balance can be divided  into three different categories in which two are the important ones -

SYMMETRICAL BALANCE
In symmetrical or formal balance one side of garment is exact copy or mirror image of the other side.In symmetrical balance the garment can be divided into two similar parts by means of a imaginary line and identical objects are placed on both sides of garment .This is the commonly used feature in the garment and it provides simplicity ,soderity and sophistication to the garment there is no creativity needed to make this type of garment therefore the designer needs to be emphasis on colour,texture and accesories to give it more dramatic look The example of symmetrical garments are trousers,cardigans,straight skirt and princess-line dress.

ASYMMETRICAL BALANCE
The asymmetrical or informal balance provides more excitement to the garment.In this case the design compostion of the garment on either side is different from each other but one part of the garment equalizes the other part in weight. The more creativity can be showed on these types of garments and body irregularities can be hidden by this factor.The example of this type of balance can be shown in formal wears.

RADIAL BALANCE
The radial type of balance can be created when the design details of a garment emerge or radiate from a     central focus point. This is a complicated design and is used for novelty effect in evening gowns.

RHYTHM
Rhythm is created by repetition of lines , patterns, shapes or colours .By use of gathers , pleats , buttons and tucks we can make a rhythmic effect in the garment.Printed suit fabrics are a wonderful example of rhythm on fabric.

EMPHASIS
Emphasis is the center of interest ,which draws and holds the attention more than any other part .
Every garment has a area of emphasis on it which makes the center of attraction of the garment.Emphasis can be achieved by means of-
Contrasting Colours
Bold and unusual shapes
Eye catching patterns
Complex Textures
Attractive Design Details
Interesting Trims

There are some details which emphasis on  face with the use of collars in contrasting colours,a bright coloured scarf or necktie,jewellery and hats.

HARMONY
Harmony in a garment relates to the overall look of the garment , in which garment,hairdo, accessories all makes the whole look.

Principles Of Harmony
Silhouette of the garment should be in a good relation to the body shape of the garment.
Style lines should be consistent on every area of the garment.
all ares of the garment should reflect the same shapes so that the continuity of the design is not broken.
Similar or contrasting textures should be used in a pleasing way.
Unity in the colour combination should be there to provide harmony.
Small differences in the hem lengths of sleeves and garment ends should be avoided as they interfere
with the horizontal movement of the eye

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Clothing Terminology

Clothing terminology comprises the names of individual garments and classes of garments, as well as the specialized vocabularies are given to different types of garments that are manufactured and designed according to person to person.
Clothing terminology ranges from the arcane (watchet, a pale blue color name from the 16th century) to the everyday (t-shirt), and changes over time in response to fashion which in turn reflects social, artistic, and political trends.

The different types of clothing terminology are-

BASIC GARMENTS-

Shirt,coat,skirt,dress,suit,underwear etc.

ACCORDING TO THE LENGTH OF SKIRT AND DRESSES-

Mini skirt,cocktail dress,evening dress,full length, mini,mid or maxi length.

HISTORIC GARMENTS-

Corset , shift dress,gowns.

DIFFERENT PARTS OF GARMENTS-

Sleeve,collar,lapel etc.

CLOTHING DETAILS-

Pockets,zippers,buttons,french cuffs etc.

FASHIONS AND ANTI - FASHIONS-

Preppy,new look,hip-hop,rational dress etc.

Persistence of clothing terminology

Some terminologies are still recognised today in their original forms.The examples of these types of terms are gowns,shirt,skirt and coats Gowns are originated from the medieval latin word gunna . It was a basic garment that hangs from the shoulders.

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