Basic Textile Terminology

Fiber-yarn-fabric



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Fiber is the basic fundamental unit from which a textile material is used and it is also known as the basic unit of a yarn which is characterized by flexibility, fineness, cohesiveness and a high ratio of length to thickness .There are two types of fibers staple and filament fibers. Some fibers are natural like cotton, silk and wool.

Yarns are made by twisting of fibers different types of yarns are made by twisting in different ways.
Staple fibers made staple yarns and filament fibers made filament yarns.

The process of making of staple yarns from staple fiber is first the cleaning of yarn is done and is straightened. Then the twisting of yarns is done which is called as mechanical spinning

The process of making of filament yarns from filament fibers. The process that is used for this is chemical process in which a spinning solution of raw material is made and the yarns are passed through the holes of a spinnerets .Then a solid thread like form is made which is called as filament yarns.


Now the yarns are made, then the process of making of fabric starts. There are many types of process that is used for making of fabric from yarn in which some are weaving and knitting 

The Use of Line in Fashion Drawing



Line Positioning

In fashion drawing the usage of line in better way make it more appealing and give more meaning to it. Lines give movement to our eyes; it gives direction to our eyes in which way it has to move. The most important characteristic of fashion drawing when we have to capture the appearance of the garment when the body is in motion. The direction and positioning of line can lead the eye and reinforce the sense of movement in a drawing in the way we want. Horizontal lines suggest the lack of movement, stability and equilibrium and diagonal lines shows the movement and vitality.

Line and Color

In figure drawing made with lines, usually created with a pen or pencil – the information in the drawing is conveyed solely with the use of line. Many times one line has to convey more than one types of information so the use of line have to be more precise to avoid confusion. When colors are used, much of the information conveyed in a line drawing of a garment is provided by the usage of color. Through shading the drawing through tints and shades the expression is showed.

The information that is provided by line on shape, size, proportion, and detail is convey mainly by the location and direction of straight and curved lines. The width and weight of a line also shows a different type of information about line. The width and weight of the line can mainly be used for representing the difference between fabrics and subtle visual effects of the three dimensional garments on the figure, the drape lines, nuanced lines indicating depth and shadow and lines within the garment.

The principles ways to vary width and weight of line and their applications in fashion drawing are as follows-

LIGHT, THIN, CRISP (CLEAN EDEGED) LINES

These lines are drawn with a sharp, hard graphite or mechanical pencil and are useful for indicating light, crisp fabrics such as linen, taffeta, laces, tulle and polished cottons.

LIGHT, SOFT, (FUZZY EDGED) LINES

These lines are drawn with the edge of a softer pencil and are useful for indicating knits, boucle, angora, embroidery and ribbing.

LIGHT THICK LINES

These lines are used to indicate the fit of a garment, the position of the figure under the garment.

DARK, THIN, CRISP LINES

These lines can be used to draw seams, shadows under buttons or other small details such as sequins, edges of jeweler, joints in accessories and shadows in crisp fabrics.

DARK SOFT LINES

These lines can be used for soft fabrics in shadow and other items that are soft such as thick wool, quilts, heavy shoes and purses.

NAUNCED LINES

This the lines that can change in thickness and width along their length, switching from light to dark to thick to thin, to crisp to soft edged and sometimes disappearing and appearing as the lines move into and out of the areas of light.


Composition in Colors

Composition in Colors (initial compositional decisions/ elements to include/grouping)
Putting all the elements together

The decision involved in the composition of the fashion drawing, both the practical decisions relating to the presentation of the garments and then the application of the principles of design and color combinations takes place.

Initial Compositional Decision

The fashion drawing is, first and foremost, an illustration. The various issues of the overall composition of the drawing a number of initial decisions have to be made about the presentation of the subject matter.

1.       The first step in the process of making of fashion drawing is first to decide design and color of the garment and the combination of the garments and the choices of accessories.

2.       Then the pose, gestures and coloring of the basic figure drawing of the croquiswith the subject of the garments.

3.       The composition of the figure or figures on the page, the background elements, skin tone, makeup and hair, objects and empty (negative space).

Once these decisions have been made then the compositional design and color elements can be considered and the drawing planned out.

Elements to Include In the Drawing- The Number of Garments and Figures

The first decision to be made about drawing is what it is to include. If a number of garments are to be illustrated then the different ways the garments can be combined has to be considered and decisions made as to which option would make for the best presentation. This often entails further decisions as to the number of figures to be included in the drawing.

      

Properties of Colors


Saturation / Intensity

The most important property of color is its ‘level of saturation’ .The saturation can be described as the process of lowering of color. Lowering saturation can be achieved by the mixing of grey of a similar value. As more grey is added the color loses its saturation eventually getting to a stage where pure grey is made.

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When we add grey to a color than it is called as ‘tone’- a less saturated version of the color. The saturation of a color can be decreased by mixing it with its complementary color, resulting in a muddy, neutralized version.

To increase the saturation of the color we have to add the more of the same color, displaying greys and neutral elements, or adding an already more saturated version of the same color.
Changing colors and saturation simultaneously

The value of the a color is changed, as mentioned above, by adding white , black or grey, to produce tints, shades and tones. By changing the value we can also change the saturation level of the color.


Composition in colors




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Colors bring a new dimension to a drawing. Color s is used as a powerful tool for conveying information, expressing ideas, moods, and emotions and as a way for unifying and enhancing the overall design. Colors add an extra level of interest and complexity to the design.

 The process of putting color combinations in a color drawing must become complex sometimes because there are many combinations to choose from. In this situations instincts, preference and taste will determine the final choice.

Many designers and artists make decisions according to their instants. Even though the design-decision process at some point becomes intuitive, however, there will be times when a drawing has not turned out as hoped for but it is difficult to pin point exactly where the problem lies.


When this type of problem rises we need to carefully examine the principles of design and color combinations. Although in many situations numerous outcomes are equally possible, it almost always turns out to be the case when making color and compositional decisions the more informed the decision making and the greater the understanding of the principles of the design and properties and behavior of colors, then the better will be the final results.    

Color harmonies and Schemes


Color schemes are guidelines for choosing groups of colors that will harmonize forming combinations that are pleasing to eye. Formal color schemes are based on combinations of colors from the color wheel selecting according to various rules.





There are three types of formal schemes-

Simple harmony Schemes
Contrasting color schemes
Balanced color Harmony schemes

Simple Harmony Schemes

Simple color harmony schemes are those colors that are close in a color wheel and are on the same level. The best example for these are neutrals which are of different hues but have same saturation level. These schemes are generally considered as safe and predictable and many painters use this type of color schemes and are referred as tonality.
In this type of scheme there are other components also like monochromatic color schemes, analogous color schemes and achromatic schemes.

Contrasting color harmonies

The contrasting color schemes have greater chances of clashing and more care has to be given to ensure the combinations and harmonies. It also constitutes cold warm color schemes, split complementary, double complementary and complementary dyad schemes.

Balanced color harmony schemes

Balanced color harmony schemes are based on colors equidistant on the color wheel which harmonize like equidistant notes in a musical chord. It also constitutes triad schemes and tetrad schemes.


Composition in Fashion Drawing



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A fashion drawing is composed at a number of different levels and stages and design decision has to be made at each time. The decisions that are going to be made include the color ways of the garment and combination of accessories.
 Most of the times the drawing is made with reference to a swatch of the actual fabric by which the garment is being made. The variables that are usually being in the sphere of the decision of artist or designer are –

The pose, gestures and coloring of the basic figure drawing of the croquis with the subject garment.

The components of the figure or figures on the paper.

The background element

The skin tone, make up and hairs.


And the objects and empty space.